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Filament Spool Holder

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Parent Category: BubsBuilds Projects
Category: Printer Stuff
I know there are tons of designs out there for spool holders...yeah, pretty much just that. No clue why I decided I I needed to add my take on it, but alas, here we are.
 
I recently rearranged my printer setup to move all of my filament printers only a single wire shelf (I say "all", it's 3, which is a lot to me, but I know, not exactly a print farm :) ). My two  Prusa Mk3ses fit on one shelf, and the monster (aka Elegoo Neptune 4 Max) takes up another. Although I had the vertical space to just have the shelves spaced far enough apart to fit the OEM  spool holders, I thought it would be preferable to have a single "filament shelf" and then route filament from there to the printer. This would allow me in the future to enclose that shelf as a large dry box/dryer as well as keeping filament nice and centralized. All them eggs in one spot where I can see 'em!
 

Design Overview

 SpoolHolder_model1281_0a9bc.jpeg
The main structure of the spool holder is  provided by the 'Mount Race' part. It secures to the wire shelves with the Cap with two M5 heat sets. The Cap is intended to straddle the central brace that runs along the length of the shelf to provide resistance against rotation.   
The 'race' aspect of the Mount Race comes in the form of a v-groove that runs circumferentially around the rim.  It is filled with 16 bearing balls and mated with a matching groove in either a Spool Blank or Spool Post.
 
Another Spool Post is  then mirrored on the first with a single ball  making a "jewel bearing". This jewel bearing serves two purposes. The first is that it allows the two spools to spin independently, and the second is that it allows for angular misalignment between the Mount Race and Retainer Race.
 
Speaking of the Retainer Race, it sits on top of another 16 balls in the top of the race of the   Spool Post. It is secured to the Mount Race with six M3s, with heat sets inserted into the perimeter of the Mount Race.
 
The result is that the load from the left spool is transmitted directly into the rigid mount via  the bearing. The load from the right spool passes through the Retainer and throught the bolted flange to the rigid Mount Race.
 
CAD: If you want to dive into the dumpster fire of a CAD model yourself, you can find it on OnShape here.

Build

 BOM

  • Printed 
  • COTS
    • (33) 9.5mm balls  - 16 in each race and one for the center 'jewel bearing'. I actually use 3/8" 'slingshot ammo', but it's technically modeled for 9.5mm...close enough :)
    • (6) M3 heat set insert - I went with  6mm lengths. Anything up to 10 should be fine.
    • (6) M3   BHCS - Length will depend on  spacers, but  likely between 10 and 12 mm lengths should work.
    • (2) M5 heat set inserts - For the Cap
 I feel like the above GIF kinda covers the assembly, but in case ya like words:
  1. Insert six M3 heat sets in Mount Race
  2. Insert two M5 heat sets in Cap
  3. TIP: if you're planning to set it up for two spools, I'd recommend setting the Mount Race up in a vise or the like with the bearing race aiming up.  This will make the next steps much easier.
  4. Drop in the 16 balls in the Mount race.
  5. Set the  Spool Blank or Spool Post onto the Mount Race  so that the bearing races nest. It should spin pretty freely. If it doesn't, now's a good time to check for any print blobs or the like that might be getting in the way.
  6. Place a single ball into the cone on the back side of the Spool Post (or Blank)
  7. Set the other Spool Blank on top...like a little top hat...
  8. Add the remaining 16 balls to the race of the Spool Blank.
  9. Slide the Retainer Race over the post of the top Spool Post and into position. Be careful to not knock over the post to avoid playing 16 ball pickup. Also, I found it easier to insert the fasteners in their holes before lowering the retainer onto the assembly.
  10. Tighten the retainer fasteners, preferably using a star pattern to close the bearing evenly. You want to tighten these fully (I don't have a torque spec for ya, but 'fully tightened for M3 in polymer...?). If the bearing feels too tight for your liking, you can add in one or more of the Spacers to get your preferred level of preload or play.

 some Design Notes

2024/01/16 - Initial Design

To keep on trend for my recent projects, I'm yet again playing with an integrated bearing. Although I haven't had any failed prints from it, I'm frequently made nervous by the tension required on the filment to overcome the sliding friction between the spool and holder. 
 
SpoolHolder_v1_model1_563c3.jpeg
 
 But, as usual, I also can't leave well-enough alone, and so I'm trying something a bit different for  providing the preload into the bearing. Instead of relying on a planar diaphram flexure on the plane of the bearing race(s), I'm trying  integrating compliance into the walls of the retainer.
spoolholder_model1271_b8620.jpeg
Not sure how viable this approach will be more generally, but I thought it was worth a go, and this project isn't going to be particularly sensitive to preload. So why not. 
 
....Ok, so.... full disclosure, I forgot to finish these notes on 1/16, and as I fill it in here on 1/27 I have realized that the flexure design above isn't going to flex...I'm a damn fool :) Instead of redesigning this to play with this concept further, I'm going to just make some spacers that allow for dialing in the preload.  
 
 
 
 

Saturn Platen Removal Tool

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Parent Category: BubsBuilds Projects
Category: Printer Stuff

One of my more consistent ways to make me curse my own name is when I dump resin down the front of a printer while removing the platen...I just got sad thinking about it. I've also found, on more than one occasion looking for a stable place to put a loaded platen while I scramble for whatever thing I've forgotten. So I decided to build something that could save me from myself on both of these. 

The Drip tray is preloaded against the Hanger using some magic blocks (aka magnets). I used two of these 60x10x5 magnets in the base of the Hanger and these 60x10x3 magnets in the Drip Tray. If you're looking to simplify on parts, I'd recommend using the thinner, 60x10x3, in both locations as opposed to the alternative. As I have mine, it is a quite strong preload (but that is what I was aimin for!) If you were to go with 60x10x5s on both ends, it will also be possible for the magnets to make contact...which may not end well, those neodynium magnets are pretty brittle.

I printed mine from Clear and White Overture PETG. I LOVE the clear, but I don't know why I ever buy white filament...not ma favorite

Printables  | Thingiverse

i3 Printer Stand

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Parent Category: BubsBuilds Projects
Category: Printer Stuff

i3 Printer Stand

I made these with the intention of them being something I can easily extend/update/modify over time. The upright posts are 16mm diameter wire shelving posts from these shelves (I'm planning to use the wire shelves themselves as a trellis for a different project :) ) and the cross-members are made from 400mm lengths of 2020 extrusions. I chose both of these because the former is well-suited to clamps for things like cameras, sensors, etc. and the 2020 extrusion is just generally good for modular projects. 

I have now printed about a dozen parts on each of the printers pictured (and yes, I still have yet to populate the center level of extrusions...seems fine for now ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

They definitely have some compliance to them, but only in modes that thus far don't concern me (mainly some torsional compliance up along the central axis of the stand). I also expect quite a bit of stiffening as I add things like a dry box to the middle tier. I suspect I may have to add some squish back into the printer mounts sometime in the future to keep the printer isolated, but for now I'm actually pretty pleased with how the tower itself is acting as an isolator between the printer and ground.

BOM

Printed part files:

Printables  |  Thingiverse

Corner Clamps

Each level of the stand uses three of these printed brackets, and three sections of extrusion. I went with 400mm extrusions for these two stands for my Mk3s printers. 

The brackets are secured to the extrusion with two m5x10 fasteners on each extrusion. The end cap is secured to the bracket with four m4x16 fasteners in companion heat sets. There is also an additional m5 heat set in between the extrusions, but it is only there as a "might be handy in the future" feature. So up to you as to whether to populate it.

Printer Supports

The supports are currently a little over-constrained, but leaving them unfastened from the extrusion has worked fine for me so far.

The rear supports are intended to sit inside of the t-slot extrusion of the i3, and then also behind the cast plate on the back of the printer.

The front supports are just cylindrical posts that sit inside of the front extrusions. 

Waste Bin

A simple waste bin that hangs from 2020 extrusion, intended as a convenient spot for tossing purge lines, brims, and the other assorted scraps/trash that accompany extrusion printing. 

Prints without supports and took about 3.5 hours with the attached slicer config (0.6 nozzle), but I should point out that the lettering on my print came outa little lackluster.

I printed mine in Overture clear PETG

Printables  |  Thingiverse

Simple Hook

A simple, quick-printing hook for hanging accessories and such from 2020 extrusions. I'm using several of them quite happily on my i3 printer tower. 

Printables  |  Thingiverse